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She also notes that it's unhelpful when patrons try to argue with her about the science or facts of COVID.

Along the way, perhaps I would start to understand what sambal meant to the 271 million people in this enormous, mostly Muslim nation..I started to get a sense on a stroll through a quiet corner of otherwise frenetic Jakarta, when I glanced inside a tiny storefront and saw sambal being, well, "oeleked"—that is, pounded.

In a foot-wide granite mortar called a cobek, an older woman had mostly red chiles, some green ones, shallots, and garlic, which she was mashing nonchalantly with a yard-long wooden pestle called an ulekan.From this proto-sambal rose the heady and unmistakable fragrance of terasi, a fermented shrimp paste that lends umami depth to dishes across the archipelago.. From this proto-sambal rose the heady and unmistakable fragrance of terasi, a fermented shrimp paste that lends umami depth to dishes across the archipelago..Everywhere I went and ate in Jakarta, there was a version of this sambal, called sambal terasi, often cooked down in oil.

It was there with street-cart satay, and late-night congee, and breakfast fried rice—providing just enough spicy bite to wake up all the other flavors.As Wongso and others told me, sambal is one of three essential components of a meal, along with rice and krupuk, the fried crackers as airy as cheese puffs.

Take one of those away, and you're not really eating at all..

When I got to Bali, an island east of Java that is primarily Hindu, the sambal took a turn for the piquant.Season with salt and black pepper and mix well..

In a large pot, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil.Add the shallots and sliced garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until light golden, about 5 minutes.

Add the green cabbage, collard greens and the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and season with salt and black pepper.Cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until the collards and cabbage are wilted and crisp-tender, 7 to 8 minutes.